Usually when I buy plants for the garden I buy smaller 1 gallon pots and wait (sometimes for years) for the trees grow up. But occasionally, I want something that has a more immediate impact. I recently splurged $200 on a 7 foot tall ‘Sango Kaku’ Japanese Maple (also known as the Coral Bark Maple). Here’s why I think this tree is worth the investment and how to plant it for long term success!
Why the ‘Sango Kaku’ maple?
The ‘Sango Kaku’ is legendary among gardeners for its “four-season interest.” While most
trees go dormant and look a bit bleak in the winter, the Sango Kaku has vibrant,
coral-red bark that glows against a winter landscape. I think it would look amazing planted in a mixed privacy planting with some evergreens. For my specific garden there was another massive selling point: Sun Tolerance.
In the South, many Japanese maples struggle with our intense afternoon sun. The ‘Sango
Kaku’ is one of the more resilient cultivars, capable of handling full sun if kept properly
watered. I’ve placed mine in a side garden to act as a “shade anchor” for hostas, heucheras,
and hellebores that will eventually live under its canopy. Think long range plans, 2-3 years from now.
‘Sango Kaku’ Coral Bark Japanese Maple Info
| Feature | Specifications |
| Common Name | Coral Bark Japanese Maple |
| Scientific Name | Acer palmatum ‘Sango Kaku’ |
| Mature Height | 20 – 25 feet |
| Mature Width | 15 – 20 feet |
| Sun Requirement | Full Sun to Partial Shade |
| Hardiness Zones | Zones 6 – 9 |
| Best Feature | Bright Coral-Red winter bark |
Look for a Healthy Graft
When you spend $200 on a tree, you want to make sure the graft is high quality. Most Japanese Maples are grafted onto hardy rootstock. You can see a distinct “V-notch” near the base of the trunk. It’s vital to keep this area clear of any growth stemming from below that graft. That growth would be the rootstock trying to take over and should be pruned immediately.
Never bury the graft under the soil. The “root flare” or crown should be slightly above the ground level to prevent rot.
Planting Tips for Heavy Clay
Here in Tennessee, we deal with a lot of clay. If you dig a smooth hole and drop a tree in, you’ve essentially created a ceramic pot that the roots can’t escape. This leads to girdled roots and a tree that fails to thrive. To avoid that here is what I do:
- Stab the sides: Use your shovel to create deep gashes and rough edges in the walls of the planting hole. This gives the roots “grips” to penetrate the native soil.
- Don’t amend the hole: It sounds counterintuitive, but filling the hole with rich potting soil keeps the roots kind of lazy. They won’t want to leave the rich pocket. Use the native soil for backfilling.
- Water deeply: Especially in the first year, a sun-tolerant maple needs consistent moisture to establish its root system in the clay.
Grass Killing Tip: To kill off the sod around a new tree without chemicals, lay down landscape fabric or thick paper for 3-4 weeks before mulching permanently. It’s an easy way to establish a new garden bed without the back-breaking work of digging up grass.
At 25 feet tall and 20 feet wide, this tree is the perfect small garden tree. It won’t swallow the house or clog your gutters like a massive Oak might, but it provides enough character and shade to transform a side yard into a sanctuary.
If you are looking for a tree that provides color even in the dead of winter, the Sango Kaku is worth every penny of that $200 price tag.
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