Ice and Trees: Can Your Trees Recover?

Ice and trees do not mix well. A fact that we’re seeing all over Tennessee. The recent ice storm that barraged the state left people all over in varying states. A lot of people lost power due to fallen trees and ice. A lot of people also lost favorite trees on their properties. Which brings up the question: should you cut down and remove the trees or prune out the damage and hope for a recovery? The answer isn’t “clear cut” necessarily!

Is the Tree a Lost Cause? Or Can it Be Saved?

It obvious when a large tree falls and the root system gets torn from the wet ground that the tree is a lost cause. Standing it upright and securing it again is just not feasible. But what if the tree is still standing but lost major limbs? In that scenario the entire tree canopy could be altered. It might be a scenario where you want to remove and replace the tree, but how do you make that determination?

I would start by looking at the central leader of the tree. If it is undamaged and it is just a few branches along the side of the tree those could be pruned back. It’s possible that the branch may have broken and split back to the trunk of the tree. The trunk could also be seriously damaged in that location. If it isn’t that’s a plus! The pruning cut could take place on the branch side of the colar (where the branch meets the trunk). Other branches would eventually fill in the gap that is left by the branches.

My Brother In Law’s Birch Tree

My brother in law sent me a picture of their birch tree which was severely damaged. It was a really nice tree that the blue birds frequented. Bluebirds like tall perches with open spaces nearby to swoop down and catch flying insects. The tree guy person they spoke with said it could be saved. Let’s look closely at the trunk and see what issues it has:

The main leader of the tree is snapped and a large sidebranch is also broken. At the top of the tree is a second leader to the left. That leader could potentially become the main leader and might be OK. My concerns on this tree would be that the wounds from the cut branches may be large. They can heal eventually if there aren’t any disease issues. In this tree’s case I think it has a 50/50 chance of looking great again. You could try to save it or you could cut it back and replace it with a new tree. The disadvantage of a new tree is simply that it will be younger and smaller which won’t offer the type of privacy or look the mature birch tree had.

Callery (Bradford Pear) Trees

Another tree situation that we are seeing all over the state is the Callery pear failure. This is not suprising at all as these are horrible trees to begin with. The Bradford pears trees are well known for host of problems one of which is demonstrated in a friends photo below. The branching patterns on a Callery pear are weak. It pushes out lots of branches from a central point which makes puts a huge load on that point. When the trees get larger ice storms can cause them to split in the winter and high winds can cause them to split when they are fully leafed out.

My recommendation for ALL Callery pears is to replace them. I don’t even like the improved varieties*. Cut the pears out and put in something with a better growth pattern and isn’t an invasive species. Serviceberry trees are one of the number one replacement tree for callery pears.

If you have a younger tree that has lost a branch or two you definitely can prune it up to make it grow back into a great shape. My mother-in-law once had a Yoshino cherry tree that was rubbed by a deer. The trunk was nearly a total loss. The tree did have some new growth coming from the root system. I dug the tree and moved it to our property then trained that new leader to grow into the main tree. I kept the one sucker growing straight and tall while I pruned off all the other suckers around the base. Once the new main leader was ready I let it branch out to make a new canopy. The suckers at the base slowed down as the shade from the canopy grew.

Save the Tree or Replace the Tree?

It’s perfectly OK to try to save a tree. Trees often hold sentimental value, provide much-needed privacy, and create natural habitats for wildlife, so there are plenty of reasons to try and save one. As a general guideline, I use these questions to help make the call:

Survival Questions: Can the tree make a comeback?

• Is the main trunk severely damaged? If the trunk is split or has lost more than 25% of its bark, removal is usually the safest bet.
• Is there a good central leader option? If the original top was lost, is there a strong side branch that can be trained to take its place?
• Is more than 50% of the tree lost? While some trees are resilient, it is rare for a tree to fully recover its structure and health from this much damage.

Safety Questions: Is the tree a hazard?

• Is there a structural split in a “V” crotch? If the trunk has split down the middle (common in Bradford pears), the tree is structurally compromised and could fail completely without warning.
• Are there “widow-makers” hanging in the canopy? Broken branches still lodged high in the tree can fall at any time, even weeks after a storm. Do you have the equipment to remove them safely, or is a professional needed?
• Is the tree leaning toward a structure? If the ice weight caused the tree to lean or shifted the root plate, the next wind storm could finish the job. Check the ground around the base—are there fresh cracks in the soil?
• Is it near power lines? If any part of the damaged tree is touching or within reach of utility lines, stop. Never attempt to prune these yourself; call the utility company or a certified line-clearance arborist.

Opportunity Questions: Is it time for something new?

• Is the tree a species that adds value? Consider if the tree is a long-lived native or a brittle, short-lived species.
• Can I put an improved tree variety in its place? Sometimes a storm is just the “nudge” we need to plant a better-performing variety.
• Does the tree still fit the landscape? Even if it survives, will the new shape still provide the privacy or look you want, or could something else serve that purpose better?

Choosing the Right Successor

If you decide to replace your tree, don’t just grab the first thing you see at the big-box store. Use this opportunity to fix the “mistakes” of the past.

Right Tree, Right Place

• Check the Sky: Never plant a tree that matures over 20 feet tall directly under power lines.
• Check the Foundation: Large shade trees should be planted at least 15–20 feet away from the house to prevent root interference and gutter clogs.
• Check the Soil: Ensure the site’s drainage matches the tree’s needs—don’t put a “wet-feet” lover in a dry, rocky Tennessee ridge.

Quality Over Convenience Avoid the “fast-grower” trap. Trees that grow extremely fast (like the Callery pear or Silver Maple) often have weak wood that fails in the next ice storm. Instead, prioritize:

• Native Powerhouses: Oaks, Maples, and Serviceberries support more local caterpillars and birds than non-native ornamentals.
• Disease Resistance: Look for cultivars specifically bred to handle local issues like powdery mildew or cedar-apple rust.
• Structural Integrity: Choose species known for strong “U-shaped” branching angles rather than weak “V-shaped” crotches.

The Goal: You aren’t just planting a tree for today; you’re planting a future canopy that won’t leave you with a chainsaw in your hand after the next storm.

*other varieties of Callery pear are marketed as improved which means they don’t break as badly or claim to be sterile but they still will cross-pollinate with othe callery pears and perpetuate an invasive tree issue. It’s best to avoid all Caller Pear trees and remove the ones you can.