Training a Crape Myrtle into Tree Form

Recently I came across a crape myrtle on sale and decided to add it to our front garden. It’s a variety called ‘Tuscarora’ that can reach about 15 feet wide and up to 20 feet tall. There are a wide variety of crape myrtle trees available but ‘Tuscarora’ produces beautiful reddish-pink, almost watermelon-colored blooms. It’s very similar to a tree we had at our old house that I grew into a tree form crape myrtle.

Don’t Commit Crape Murder!

Unfortunately, crape myrtles are often victims of “crape murder,” where people cut off the tops of the trees. This leaves the trees looking knobby, almost like a clenched fist with all the fingers chopped off. We’re going to avoid that and get this tree started right by shaping it early.

Before Your Start Pruning

Before doing any pruning, take time to examine the plant and plan. Looking at the base of this one, I see two main trunks emerging from the pot. These are the shoots I’ll likely keep. Ideally, for a multi-stemmed crape myrtle, you want to choose between three and five strong leaders. Some people go with just a single trunk to make it into an elegant single stemmed tree. Also, in the nursery industry, it’s common for growers to stick multiple cuttings into one pot, so it’s possible we’re dealing with more than one plant.

Save the Pruned Branches for Crape Myrtle Propagation

As I prune the crape myrtle, I’m saving the healthy green material for propagation. These side shoots make great cuttings, so as I prune I put the branches in a bucket of water to root later. (I ended up with about 16 cuttings from this one session, which I’ll track in a future video/post.)

For Pruning all I needed was a pair of hand pruners. My pruners are like these from Fiskars (aff.)

Pruning the Crape Myrtle

When pruning, pay close attention to the direction of the branches. You want to avoid crossing branches that grow into each other. Crossed branches can cause issues with rubbing through the cambium layer of bark and introduce other disease issues. Plus by removing crossed branches you allow the tree to retain a cleaner appearance overall.

I removed several that crossed or were growing too low. One branch had a Y shape with potential for a good structure, so I may keep that one and decide later in winter after observing how it grows.

The goal is to create an open structure, which helps reduce fungal issues and encourages that classic exfoliating bark. The knobby spots from cuts will eventually disappear as the trunks thicken.

After pruning, I planted the tree and watered the plant in (despite the rain) because I wanted to make sure the soil settled around the roots without large air pockets. When putting the mulch back over the tree area I was careful not to create a “mulch volcano” by covering the crown of the plant.

It needed a little extra help

To help shape the crape myrtle, I used a small block of wood I’ve saved just for this purpose. (not really, I must have a few hundred little blocks of wood somewhere) The block of wood will help spread branches slightly so the canopy will open up. Some branches may need additional support or light staking to ensure proper form as they mature.

Future Pruning Tips

Now that it’s planted, we’ll maintain the tree shape by removing any new side shoots or suckers that come from the base unless we decide to allow more trunks to form. We’ll keep the leaders growing straight until they reach about 5 to 6 feet tall, then we can top them slightly to encourage lateral branching. I’ll only allow the branches to grow where I want them and keep maintaining a clean trunk and root crown area.

Crape Myrtle Dieback Issues in Colder Areas

If you’re in a colder climate and your crape myrtle dies back, it may regrow from the base. You can retrain it as a tree if needed. However, if you’re trying to remove a crape myrtle permanently, you may need to treat the stump with chemicals to prevent regrowth. When/if roots send up shoots away from the tree, those can either be propagated or pruned back.

How it Fits in Our Garden

This ‘Tuscarora’ is going into a full-sun garden with coleus, rudbeckia, daylilies like ‘Primal Scream,’ coneflowers, and Clara Curtis mums. Eventually, the crape myrtle will create some shade, and I may need to relocate some sun-loving plants. I expect our tree to grow about 2 feet per year, possibly more since we’re limiting the number of shoots and focusing the plant’s energy.

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Pruning Guide to Grow a Tree Form Crape Myrtle

• Examine and plan first. Look at the base of the plant and decide how many main trunks you want to keep (typically 1 to 5).
• Select strong leaders. Choose your main trunks (or leaders) to keep and remove excess ones.
• Remove low and side shoots. Cut off growth at the base and lower part of the trunk to begin shaping.
• Watch for crossing branches. Eliminate any branches that cross or rub against each other to avoid structural problems.
• Shape the canopy. Use small braces or guides to help young branches grow outward and upward into an open structure.
• Save healthy cuttings. Keep green, healthy side shoots for propagation if desired.
• Water in the tree. After planting and pruning, water to settle the soil and remove air pockets around the roots.
• Avoid mulch volcanoes. Keep mulch away from the crown of the tree to prevent rot.
• Maintain the form. As the tree grows, continue removing suckers and side growth, and correct shape as needed.
• Top leaders when tall enough. Once trunks are about 5–6 feet tall, lightly top them to encourage lateral branching at canopy height.
• Adjust over time. Revisit in winter to refine structure when the tree is dormant.